Between mirrors and the sky

Day 1

Brazil. My girlfriend and I were floating in a pool at a hotel in Rio. She widens her eyes, winks swiftly twice and asks: “would you be up to traverse the Amazons?”. A waiter approached; he slowly puts the caipirignas downn in an attempt to listen to my answer. «Ofcourse, what are you saying?” – I replied briefly-“Do you doubt my spirit of adveture? I don’t know if you remember, when I was young I crossed the continents with only a backpack”; I would obviously be up for it…«That’s great!”– she said with the happiness of a small child. – “ I knew you would be up for the idea, so we leave tomorrow. We will be going to a luxury criuse that sails through the Amazons for five days”. 

That was that. We packed. The next day our destination was Iquuitos, Peru. I realized that everything had been carefully planned and I wasn’t even aware…We arrived at the hangar in Peru and got on a car that took us to the port of Nauta, where the embarcation awaited. The Aqua, a luxury 5 star criuse was expecting us. After the guides explained to all of us the saftey rules of the ship, we enjoyed a romantic Peruvian dinner over the wooden deck and under the dark night. The cuisine was an expirience through out the entire trip. Savoring a chilli duck with yuca grind that recieved the claps of all the people onboard. 

The crew’s service is impecable, each and everyone of them shows kindness. By that time, the river was silence and docile. I still wonderd, how on earth had I been in less than twenty-four hours from swimming in a pool of a boutique hotel to sailing the most mighty river on the planet. Truth be told, without adventure there isn’t a complete vacation. She was right, as usual. The idea of entering the Amazon river, on a embarcation with all the commodeties, headed toward the National Pacaya-Samiria Reserve, which is the second most largest in Sout America.  

 

 

 

Day 2

The Luxurious rooms of the ship are comfortable and spacious; It is a great relief that they are equiped with air condition, this way you do not suffer from the amazonic heat; they possess full bathrooms with hot water that is available all day, but the best of it all is that from wall to cieling, a panoramic window that allows yours eyes to see all the surrounding nature. 

We woke up early and had a light breakfast, preparing swiftly for the expedition to Yanallpa river. Julio would be our guide, he is a very acute person, our favorite tourguide by far; he invited us abourd the small boats to explore this torrent of dark waters that form the Amazonic Rainforest. It was incredible to whatch, as we floated on the river, the trees and plants that begin to form a tunnel of dense vegetation. As we plough through the jungle, Julio headed our attention toward frail monkeys. In a very funny manner white masks are formed on their faces, aspect which makes them seem mischivious toys. Amongst the tree tops, we found parrots, as well as colorfull flocks of macaws that seemed to emmulate the rainbow with their feathers.

After dinner and a well desearved nap, we once again got on the boats to meet “ the jungle of mirrors”. The water was dark and in absolut tranquility. The trees and the sky perfeclty reflected on the river, makes it easy to loose oriantation. We were lucky enough to see enigmatic caimans, hidden amongst the plants and noticed by the tourguide, due to a pair of eyes gliding on the river. 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 3

Six a.m. and we were up. Little blue birds were flying outside the window. We could barely keep awake when we got on the boat that would take us to an expedition to Lake HatumPosa, a beautiful and intricate mirror of water that has the shape of a horse shoe. If you love to bird watch, in this ride you can see an enormous amount of any type of birds: hawks, elegant herons, swallows and cormorants, that At the hunting descend swiftly over the river, and the strangest of them all: the camungos. 

They seem like clumsy turkeys, but it is not the case; they fly skillfully, they possess a horn in their heads and its most intriguing characteristic is the emission of a strange acute and high sound when they perceive danger or other abnormality. So much surroundingnature restores the optimism and positive energy.  

We began to get ready for lunch back at the cruise. The chef on board surprised us with jumbo prawns in corn pepian and coconut, accompanied by a mango salad. We used the afternoon to rest and sunbathe on the roof; Julio told us we would take a hike through the jungle, near the HatumPosavillage. We began walking through the jungle, the sight, became sharper, I could perceive more colors and differentiate things that passed unnoticed before. Would this be an invitation of nature? Offered to remind us our origins? 

As we continue to walk through the jungle, the tour guide would patiently make a pause and explain the medicinal use of every tree and plant, as well as the importance of this reserve to the locals. The woods were like a great natural pharmacy. We returned to the Acqua exhausted. When the afternoon finalized, we took the small boats to navigate on the PacayaRiver. The sun strained amongst the branches of the trees; the capuccine, friar and howling monkeys peeped out to the sunset and were curious around new visitors. The particularity they have is a strong sharp sound used as a sign to mark their territory; added to others animals that wake up when the sun hides. 

 

 

 

Day 4

That night’s sleep was was pleasent. This was the day I had expected the most: an afternoon fishing; according to the guide, the species that inhabit there nearly approches three thousand varieties of different tropical fish. The morning was moist and chilly. We got on the boats very early to head ourselves to the Puinahia river. Advancing slowly; as we enjoyed a light breakfast, we felt the summit of the jungle and its misteries. 

It all seemed at peace by those hours. We stopped near the habitat of some pink dolphins. A mammel so adorable and friendly, it is difficult to risist.Pink colored and with a large pointy mouth it differenciates from others of the same species. Amongst the Amazonic tribes, a legend exists which say these animals transform into humans to kidnap men and women of the villages nearby, during the popular celebrations. 

We left the dolphins and went to what I was expecting. Only the selvatic sounds, my fishing rod and the uncountable fish. After a while, I saw how everyone else pulled them as they pleased, I, crossed, abandoned by fishing pole. The only thing I could achieve to get was a little piranha, a carnivore fish that appears in meny terror films, used to scare the public. 

Trying not to laugh, she approached and told me that probably, if I couldn’t achieve to pull anything out (while for the other tourists fish seemed to jump on their boat) was due to the fact that the huge fish I had captured was divoured by the little piranha before I pulled the rod out… all the laughter of the people followed. 

The day closed with a good-bye dinner; some of the nice Acqua crew began to tell us stories and anecdotes of the river and the luxurois embarcation. Amongst the drinks offered, the tempting pisco sour and the refreshing caipiringnias, we all talked until dawn. 

 

 

 

 

Day 5

We chose March to make the journy, which allowed, along with the enjoyable weather in the last day ot our stay go aboard the small boats once more for a last expedition. The waterfron community of Belen awaited for us. The curious thing about this plave is 

The way they build their houses and tents, in such a way they float on the river. We took a stroll at the traditional market of food from the Peruvian Amazon; this is the place where several people gather to sell and purchase products. Here you will find almost anything and it is a good occassion to acquire some ethnic gifts. 

By lunch, we had all packed and ready. We ate some friut and began the journy to Iquitos. The contrats was surprising. 

Five days sailing the Amazons, crossing the Pacaya Samiria reservoir, and coexisting with a varity of wildlife sufficed to make us feel like strangers amongst people and the unmoving cement of the city. By the way, she was right. Is there anyother way to exprience the lung of the earth, if it isn’t saling in absolut luxury aboard a five star criuse?

Text: Emanuel Alday ± Photo: Aqua Amazon / ARIA / static / WIMBACONECTION / Katiel Ves