Day 1:
I couldn’t believe it, I was esthatic, almost frozen, the flight via AirFrance to the city of light was long, maybe due to the anticipation of the trip or maybe because this time I would see a different Paris. The 14 hour flight was forgotten as soon as I arrived to the Charles de Gaulle, it seemed like an un going party, and everyone was invited: screaming, accents, swift paces, people wanting to see their loved ones. The air was cold “Welcome to your one degree Paris” I thought, while walking up to a little man holding a sign of the Ritz with my name written in a hurried handwriting. He looked like an exact replica of inspector Clouseau. There was Paris, to the feet of whoever was sufficiently polite to introduce to her, ready to confide her secrets without thinking it twice. I looked through window and thought that as soon as I reached the hotel, I should call my friends and dine at the “Au Pied de Cochon” just to finish formalizing the bonds with the city. We arrive to the 15 of Place Vendôme. After a dynamic check-in I opened the door to the room. Coco Chanel lived at the Ritz for some time, and I would be staying for 5 days in what was her most intimate space during this period. “The Ritz is my home” I said quoting her. Everything was in its place, the flowers, the complementary pastries, and the view…If you observe through the window, you can see the carpet of little lights that creates Paris, the dome of the impressive Place Vendôme and if you are lucky of being there in December, the snow, almost hand placed snowflake by snowflake.
I took a shower and began the ritual of friend calling, who arrived for me at 9:00 pm. If you ask me, there is no better place for a Parisian night out with friends, perfect ending for the perfect 24 hours: 6, RueCoquillière, The menú is in charge of Chef ChristopheQuinart-Gouretes. It is a gourmet delight, the Plateau Royal is the entreé to share, followed by the traditional soupe à l’oignon gratinée (if I hadn’t ordered it my grandfather would never forgive me), as a main course the Pluma Pata Negra Ibérique, closed with the Fameux Baba Au Rhum Ambré with a Café Gourmand which will want to make you kidnap the pâtissier. All accompanied with a Saint Emilion Grand Cru Château Haut Veyrac. Textualizing the inmmortal frase of the “ Que n sárretepas le vin!”
Day 2:
Love enters through the eyes. My recommendation for breakfast is that you have it in Ladureé. Paris tucks us with little cafe and enjoyable boutique restaurants, reduced spaces that seem so intimate. Founded in 1862, this pastry shop was located at rue Royal 16, after a fire it was rebuilt else wear. With French architecture and great windows, this bakery holds within its doors little “pieces” of heaven, ready to come out of their refined shelves whenever we dispose. I strongly recommend the Fraisier, although if you are not a strawberry lover, the Religieuses is precisely what its name implies, accompanied with a café au lait; however, if there is something you cannot walk out from this little and beautiful boulangerie is its macarron, which have no match. The chocolate with cherry are a vision, butter with caramel, red fruits, orange blossom and my personal favorite: mango with jasmine. They are the perfect companions for a cold Parisian morning, and for a moment, they make me forget that I am ready to visit one of the most emblematic places in the French capital, Notre Dame.
It’s a morning where the snow sparkles due to the sunrays, making of this beautiful structure an imposing declaration of what it has witnessed. There, surrounded by the Sene River, I gave it the title of most gorgeous gothic style church I have ever seen. I walk down her halls and take a glance of the Caville-Cole, for an organ player, one of its greatest aspirations in life is to play it. I sat down on the knleer and remembered that the coronation of Henry the VIII happened right here, during the 100 year war, the other coronation of Napoleon Bonaparte four centuries later and the beatification of Joan of Arc…everything here. All separated due to that space-time relativity; I understand why Victor Hugo wrote about her, the cathedral is alive. As I walk out of Notre Dame and look at my watch,11:00 am, just in time! Shopping at Rue de Montaigne: Place were the best shops is Paris are located. Sharing its credit with the Champs Elysees and Rue Royal.
Day 3:
To begin a day full of luxury, the best option is the spa at the George V Four Seasons, of which you can easily fall in love; Decorated with a style of the XVIII century, its construction was realized by the exhaustive selection of the most delicate and fine materials, assuring a stunning result. It counts with the best stylists in the city, and to be honest I couldn’t go to Versailles not worthy of the occasion. To evoke Marie Antoinette is to go back to the Paris of its authors. The willing drawings, the jewels that talk, its rooms and halls help go back to its essence. I arrived to the city at night, more than ready to go dine at Fouquet’s, a gastronomic gem from the city of light, of whom Jean-Yves Leuranguer is in charge of, he transports our pallets with the insignia courses of the restaurant: ceviche de thon au citron vert, jus de carambole poivrée, lotte en blanquette de noix de coco et tamarin. More than happy from the visit, we were ready to take the city by storm. That night was to enjoy.
To the Moulin Rouge and the Crazy Horse we go! For the fanatics of the bohemian and the Belle Epoque, this, is a forced stop. However, the night didn’t end there, the thing to do in Paris are the parties in its catacombs, from which you can have access by Arrondissement 14, in the Place Denfert-Rochereau. We meet again with the inevitable history found in every corner of the city. These underground tunnels have so much to tell: their immortalization in Les Miserable, their use by the members of the Resistance and their participation during World War II. In its catacombs, without a doubt, you can hear the chants of Paris.
Day 4:
I was staring at the emblematic Chanel Chinese screen, while I asked myself if it was true that she was once a spy, when the phone rang. –Ready to go to the Village Suisse? – I stood up in one jump. We watched the snow fall as we arrived to the 78, avenue de Suffren. Feeling anxious by what it was I could find with the antiques dealers. If you are at all in anything like me, we will always be searching for “The Object” that captures the essence of the place, to go back home and remember. This city is characterized by that, its longing. We began to walk through the streets where Julio Cortázar wrote “Hopscotch”. We would go Hôtel Des Invalides, the grave of Napoleon Bonaparte, in which there is a trick, want it or not, we are going to make a reverence to the emperor.
At the entrance, a circular balcony is located; the sacred ground is below, for us to see what it is, we bow. Ironically, I felt something was missing from Paris; I couldn’t put my finger on it until it hit me as if I had discovered a relevant theory in the Quantum Physics field, The Eiffel Tower! Symbol of the Parisian industrial revolution, architectonic work of a man who would be destined to hate it and which (for his bad luck) would be seen from every point in Paris. Evoking Gustav Eiffel, we dined in 58 restaurant. Letting ourselves go by the cooking of Alain Soulard. As we all know, you cannot go to this city and not go to the top; for me, this wasn’t good. It is custom to kiss at this place, and if you are in my situation, just repeat after me: “Je suis à la Tour Eiffel, embrassez moi”
Day 5:
To wake up in a linen sea is to renew ourselves. As the Japanese say, everything deserves a ritual, this way we are able to prepare for the things yet to come…The last day in the city of love. The sentiment of expectation is inevitable. I had breakfast in the Rue de Rivoli, near the Louvre to take a stroll through its most significative showrooms and greet the Mona Lisa. Walking through its streets, I achieved to reach Place Concorde and observe the majestic facde of the Crillon hotel, which will soon have a renovation.
This hotel, just like Notre Dame, has been witness to king’s rules, the Napoleonic Empire and the French revolution. By 2015, this hotel will celebrate the beginning of a new era. (Mental note: Must stay here next visit). I keep walking under a gray sky and it makes me laugh to think that maybe Paris is sad because I’m leaving, maybe we should say our proper goodbyes – Very well, very well - I think, while walking toward the boats that offer a tour on the Sene river. You cannot miss it.
The great boat advances over the lazy waters, I say goodbye to the city, leaning against the handrail I see the gardens of the Tulleries, La Place Concorde, Notre Dame, the Orsay museum and the Eiffel Tower. Motionless, indifferent to the passing of the years; all of them waiting, willing to tell us about their lives, spreading out the best they have to offer to each and every one of those strangers who come visit. Paris is mystique, each corner tells a story, each turn on a street is an important place and each glance of its inhabitants is a glance from her, present, alert and tangible. It is already 6:45 pm and curiously my watch stops the moment I arrive at the Charles de Gaulle, ready to go back home, full of excellent company, interesting anecdotes and situations that only Paris will give. I think after all, I don´t know if in the city of life is where you start or you end, if what is mine is hers or if what is hers is mine, or maybe, just maybe we already part of one another.
Text: AMURA ± Photo:wea / DFRT / DFRT / huff harrington / pursitist / wps / / sxc / sdb / flickr / columbus / wordpress /dsf / hrs / alcon viajes / wallrtf