AN UNFORGETTABLE ENCOUNTER

Winter is the best time to observe large marine species migrating with the current. Some come for breeding and others just for feeding. I learned that in the Bahamas you could have a close look at tiger sharks, the lemon and gray varieties. I got in touch with my good old friends, especially with Eli Martinez (snorkeling with sharks worldwide); I also researched the internet and booked the trip with a boat just for us.

We met at the Miami airport and from there we drove on a Van to West Palm Beach, where we expected by the Dolphin Dream’ a simple steel-build vessel, nothing fancy, but very comfortable and secure, enough to navigate to our destination. Excited, we settled into our cabins for the journey to Freeport Island in the Bahamas. We delayed our departure because there was a strong wind from the north, and took the opportunity to walk around the area restaurants.

At midnight we put forward to Freeport and arrived at the West End Marina late the next morning. We passed through customs and immigration and set sail immediately, now heading to Tiger Beach, where we were assured that we could have close encounters with tiger sharks, lemon and gray hammer. 

 

 

 

 

We arrived at Tiger Beach by dusk, still in time for our first dive. Needless to say, before arriving, the crew of the ship began to pour a thick and very unpleasant odor mixture of blood and fish, which is loved by the great predators of the sea.

When the captain dropped the anchor in a sandy area very near the Fish Tail reef, we all had our snorkel gear and dive equipment on, and were very excited to begin the dive; but  quickly quiet down when we saw, very close to the platform of the boat several respectable sized sharks swirling around the water surface. We armed ourselves with courage and followed Eli’s example, our main guide.  We jumped into the water and swam to the bottom, (about 30 feet), avoiding being an easy prey to a wild shark.

First to surround us were some curious lemon sharks, easily identified by its pointed nose, teeth out and their so peculiar color. Second came the gray sharks, which with amazing speed, took most of the bait. We enjoyed seeing these beautiful examples for a good time but, did not see even a shadow of the tiger sharks.

 

 

 

 

The sunset heralded the arrival of the night; we had been under water for over 70 minutes cold began to get into our bones. Suddenly, in the distance, we glimpse a dark color silhouette. It was larger than the rest, and in a few seconds it became even larger. Everyone’s nerves were tense. We had almost no air in our tanks, and we had to remain motionless to avoid scaring the beautiful tiger shark coming straight at us. Eli had told us that we should align forming a corridor for the shark to pass through and then, it took from his hand a big piece of fish. We were assured that once it would try the food, he would not leave.

That was exactly what happened. When the big tiger shark which was almost 4 meters long tasted the food, stayed with us showing a quite friendly demeanor, although I must confess, one of the first times it approached Eli; it came with its enormous open mouth. My amazement was huge when I saw Eli quietly close its mouth and, not happy with that, he swam to the shark’s nose and they took a short swim together like if nothing had happened.

As the last rays of sunlight filtered into the bottom, we could see the impressive tiger shark in all of its glory. It was so unreal that I had the feeling of being in a large theater. Its front was pretty big, and its figure gradually thinned down to a tail fin.

 

 

Now I know the reason of its name. As the big Asian cat, this shark has a series of transversal dark stripes on the back and on the sides, which will fade with age. The body can be gray or light blue, and the face and belly are of an off-white color. We could see that its head flattened head includes a flat nose and a large mouth with well-developed lips. Another notable feature is its nostrils, elongated and forward-facing its head, almost in frontal position.

The large circular eyes, well accustomed to great depths caught my attention, not to mention its large and powerful teeth. I could see the hook shaped molars with their serrated edges, able to break the shell of a turtle. This particular tiger shark was nicknamed “Smiley” because of a scar on his jaw, caused most likely by shark killer bait.

We were so delighted with the show that we did not want to leave the water. The last pictures I took were already in the dark. A turtle swam rambling among 20 to 30 lemon sharks and 2 tiger sharks, without them doing any damage to the turtle at all. So, beyond any expectations we had before we dove, we were amazed at this close encounter  with the most feared predator of the seas, coexisting in peace with us and with the turtle.  Did they perceived our good intention and admiration for them? I don’t know that much, but after swimming with them, I feel an enormous responsibility to protect them by all means possible.

 

 

Text: Alberto Friscione Carrascosa ± Photo: Alberto Friscione Carrascosa