LThe fourth edition of the Salón International de Alta Relojería has proven itself to be most prestigious event for watchmakers, jewelers, and all who appreciate the most delicate mechanics and the highest precision. Furthermore, it was a faithful reflection of the outstanding streak that high-end watchmaking is currently enjoying around the world, especially in Latin America, where a 26.9 % growth in Swiss watch imports has been seen.
Thirty-five prestigious brands presented their latest and most exclusive models in the company of distinguished personalities that offered conferences on the current state of high-end watchmaking. Amongst the present firms, we discovered flourishing creators that seek an alternative road from the establishment, a few of them boasting more than a century of tradition. The result is a combination of ancient techniques with new materials, and an individualistic expression that paves the way for ostentatious watches that defy the imagination.
Bovet Fleurier Amadeo Butterfly Tourbillon
Unique piece with a butterfly shaped skeleton mechanism, bridges are decorated by 76 baguette diamonds.
Cabestan Sol Invictus
An ultra efficient solar cell provides energy for two micro-motors fed by rechargeable batteries made from lithium ions, The mechanism’s heart is the impressive Cabestan Vertical Winch.
Jean Dunand The Palace
The Industrial Revolution´s nostalgia is materialized in a tourbillon monopusher chronograph. Two indicating lines with red indicators stand out.
Parmigiani Fleurier Bugatti Super Sport
Its case made of white gold reminds us of the drop shaped supports for the band that characterizes Parmigiani watches.
Christophe Claret Dual Tow
A masterpiece, with a titanium case. The platens are from sapphire crystal and it emits a clean sonnerie type ring when the chronographs button is activated.
IWC Portugués Yacht Club Chronograph
It carries a Flyback function, which returns the reading to zero without interrupting its functionality. An automatic caliber numbered 89360.
Harry Winston Project Z6 Anthracite Dial
The case is made from Zalium, a special metal alloy that allows for better resonance and sound transmission.
Chopard L.U.C. 150 All In One
Its white gold case harbours a manual spring mechanism that includes an equation of time, perpetual calendar, lunar phase, time of sunrise/sunset, as well as the position of the constellations.
Concord C1 Eternal Gravity Tourbillon
Incorporated in a 48 mm white gold case are 227 baguette diamonds and 34 sapphires. The crown is fitted with 26 baguette gems; in all, a total of 403 diamonds.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition
Includes a tourbillon that displays the northern hemisphere. The sound of the repetition of minutes is unique, and it incorporates a “crystal” timbre fixed to the frontal sapphire.
Bvlgari Sotirio Bvlgari
In honor to its founder, the Sotirio Bvlgari model features the new BVL168 caliber, designed to offer an easy manufacture, capable of moving future complications.
Montblanc Rieussec Silicon
This monopusher chronohraph shows the partial times through spinning discs mounted on top of a decorated bridge.
Bvlgari Serpenti Snake bracelet-watch
The reinterpretation of the iconic Serpenti ladies watch, which consists in a wrapping bracelet that has a watch case in one end, simulating a snake´s head. Two diamond lines frame the handmade guilloche case.
Cartier Rotonde Astro Tourbillon
Combining a traditional case in the centre with a carrousel tourbillon surrounding the main dial. Its caliber is hand wound and comes in a rose or white gold case.
A. Lange & Söhne FA Collection Tourbograph
Pour le Mérite
This watch was the first one-minute tourbillon with a chain transmition system and chronograph. Its box is manufactured out of a tougher and resistant gold alloy.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur, repetidor con Tourbillon
The rotating bezel function activates the repetition mechanism. It features a tourbillon in its gold and crystal dial with enlogated roman numerals.
IWC Portuguese Grande Complication
The tradition of a perpetual calendar mechanism, minute repeater, lunar phase and chronograph are combined with the timeless design of this line.
Maîtres du Temps Chapter One Round
This limited edition of 11 pieces brings together a one minute tourbillon, a monopusher chronograph, a retrograde dater, retrograde GMT indicator, amongst others.
Bvlgari AGS Metasonic
The Gerald Genta caliber that animates this piece incorporates a grand sonnerie Westminister chime and minute repeater.
A. Lange & Söhne Grande Complication 42500
It incorporates a sonnerie, minutes repetition, a foudroyant chronograph, and perpetual calendar with lunar phases. In total, it is composed by more than 833 pieces.
Montblanc Timewalker-1 Metamorphosis
The dial opens and slides underneath while the other emerges when the left button is pushed in the white gold case, which transforms the watch in only 15 seconds.
IWC Portugués Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde
It incorporates an automatically charged tourbillon in an unusual location at 12, the retrograde date type can allow the months advance to be seen easily.
Harry Winston Opus X
The dial is no longer fixed and it is affected by the movement of the diverse spheres. It possesses a second time zone indicator, and a lineal indicator of the movements of the watch.
Alpina Extreme Tourbillón Regulateur Manufacture
It possesses a finely decorated torubillon caliber and an anthracite-colored dial, diligent indexes inside a multi-piece box made of gold.
Chanel J12 Retrograde Mysterieuse
The “mysterious” part of this mechanism is related to the position of the crown above the crystal.
Richard Mille RM027 Rafael Nadal
It’s the world’s lightest mechanical pulse watch, weighing only 4 grams. The case is made from a carbon material and with its band it weighs 20 grams.
TAG Heuer Carrera 16 Day Date Bicentenario
A commemorative piece limited to 400. The national colors are appreciated in the chronograph hands and its automatically charged caliber resides in a stainless steel case.
Bovet Pininfarina Ottanta
Created in collaboration with the Italian car manufacturer and designer Pininfarina to commemorate his 80th birthday. It incorporates an unusual 80 second tourbillon.
Cartier ID One
The principal platen is made from brass, with a hard shell called ADLC. The balance is made from carbon crystal. It requires no lubrication whatsoever.
Breguet Fusée Tourbillon Spiral en Silicium
Apart form the classic and appreciated tourbillon mechanism, this watch harbours the benefits of a silicon spiral and transmition by means of a chain.
Text: Carlos Matamoros ± Photo: Cortesía de las marcas