A place that speaks out for its cusine
No one can be more natural and eco-sustainable than De Kas. This place nestled amidst Frankendael Park is, perhaps, the restaurant with the most logical location I’ve seen in all my travels. De Kas is a greenhouse which dates from 1926 and was rescued by the chef GertJan Hageman to make it what it is today; the most outstanding restaurant in Amsterdam and one of the best in Europe. Divided into two, the first part of the venue is the restaurant itself. The second, a greenhouse in every sense of the word where products that end up in the diners plate are grown and harvested.
Of course, the place does not give space to meet the demand of the restaurant, but that is solved with products of the surrounding gardens or, more appropriate, of local producer farms near the city, De Kas is the realization of the concept of Slow Food and sustainable cuisine at its finest.
Here, the menu isn’t always the same, but a three-course meal is performed daily, consisting of three entrances, a main course and dessert. So we took on the task of closing our eyes, opening to the prospect and start enjoying. Since we looked at the perspective we needed to open our glasses to a bottle of champagne which was served in a way that, to date, nobody has done and nobody, I think, will do: with a few basil leaves floating. Yes ... the taste changes and prepares us for what is to come.
First we had a trio of entries with radish marinated in herbs and mustard seeds, plus green olives which redefine this fruit. Finally, the house bread with basil oil is a real experience by itself. As our main course, quail served with shaved fennel, brussel sprouts and cooked walnuts to a cooking point that few reach and that they accomplish to perfection, no doubt, with the experience and expertise of a kitchen like De kas.
The dish is complicated to elaborate due to the fact that the sprouts are almost raw and the fennel is shaved thicker than we are used to, but the palate gets accustomed to things like this when they are ready for it. It is a game of textures and bitter tastes which make a perfect balance with the product. The Risotto served in a small roasted pumpkin that arrived at our table by surprise is also an experience you cannot miss. Finally, dessert was a lemon pannacotta with pomegranate seeds and melon severed with basil ice cream. Intense flavors that define a kitchen with a unique style.
Amsterdam, as I said earlier, is one of the most beautiful and diverse cities in the world. Without a doubt, a visit to some of their culinary gems, wrap the experience to return home eager to have had more time to enjoy what is happening in their kitchens. There are culinary life changing experiences and the way we see the kitchen is different.
Info
De Kas
Kamerlingh Onneslaan 3, 1097 DE Amsterdam, Países Bajos
Tel. +31 20 462 4562
Text: Carlos Dragonné ± Photo: Greetje Restaurant