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A new proposal from one of the masters of Israeli Haute Cuisine

Meir Adoni, executive chef at Mizlala, sees the restaurant as the “whimsical younger sister” of his haute-dining, white tablecloth establishment, Catit. He is committed to give diners a good night out experience.

Indeed, Mizlala by Meir Adoni, which Mr. Adoni opened last June. It may sometimes seem more a club than a restaurant. A “good night out,” though, would be impossible without Mr. Adoni’s inspiration. His Palestinian tartar offers a splendid take on a classic dish. Another surprising variation, more esasily found in Brooklyn than Israel, is the pork belly slow-roasted in whiskey and maple syrup.

Most items on Mizlala are not kosher but there are nods to the Jewish kitchen, as in an entree of fried chicken livers, portobello mushrooms and polenta. The menu draws on the cuisine of Morocco and from Iraqi Jewish tradition too. An Iraqi version of kibbeh, the traditional Levantine dish, was filled with shrimp and gray mullet and served in a toothsome stew of pancetta, mussels, beet and okra.

Although Mizlala is better recognized for its kitchen than for its bar, the Grey Fizz is, according to customers, quaffable; but the Rosie O’Donnell with vodka, Aperol and grapefruit juice, was found too peppery.

The restaurant’s creative spirit is revealed at dessert. A standout is a fudge presented in a terra-cotta planter, alongside an eyedropper of raspberry sauce for the diner to add; a bit of quirky fun.