At the twentieth edition of the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIAR), it was clear that independent watchmakers have increased their presence.

For Carlos Alonso, director and founder of SIAR, this is a global trend. “It doesn't mean that the big, established brands are doing badly, but I think it's a market that has been growing steadily for 25 years, except for a bit during the pandemic and a bit during the 2008 financial crisis.”

One of the keys is the ease of making watches compared to 20 years ago, with young people taking on the task of finding the resources and suppliers to make their dream of seeing the watch as they imagine it a reality.

In his experience, Carlos Alonso believes that dozens of brands are emerging. “All these brands have to go where the collectors are. So, well, there are many Watch Weeks happening everywhere because they know that's where the final contact with the collector is.” One detail is that these new brands don't have the financial capacity for large marketing campaigns, so they opt to come to trade shows. "And that's why it's a normal trend that we receive more and more requests every year to make room for all the new brands that are out there."

 

 

Alonso considera que la inteligencia artificial no ha sido el detonante para la creación de nuevas marcas. “Yo creo que la relojería que le gusta a los coleccionistas tiene un componente muy humano, afortunadamente. Siento que esta pasión como de hacer un diseño, una función y artesanalmente y co acabados a mano, es un tema casi como renacentista, muy humano. Yo creo que esta es la conexión con las nuevas generaciones, que es anti-digital, anti-inteligencia artificial”.

 

Alonso believes that artificial intelligence hasn't been the catalyst for the creation of new brands. "I think that the watchmaking that collectors like has a very human component, fortunately. I feel that this passion for creating a design, a function, and handcrafting and finishing it by hand, is almost a Renaissance thing, very human. I think this is the connection with the new generations, who are anti-digital, anti-artificial intelligence."

 

Investment or possession?

The CEO of SIAR believes that a watch is meant to be owned, to be worn; it's an impulsive purchase. You know what I mean? It's like when you bought vinyl records because you liked the music, and then, it's not like, "I have 300, well, and I want another 100," you know? Because there's no limit. I think watches are a bit like that, like collecting. People who like watches don't buy them for life anymore; it's more impulsive, like, "I want this one, but I like what this brand represents, its values, its style, its vibe." Alonso considers acquiring a watch like acquiring art. "Don't buy art just thinking it's an investment." Fall in love with the designer, with what they convey to you, what they represent, their vibe, their aesthetic.”

One of the keys for Alonso is to fall in love with the watch you like, understand it, buy it, and enjoy it. He clarifies: “Not all watches appreciate in value, and some appreciate significantly, usually those that are already very difficult to find. But even with those top brands, I feel there have been too many recent speculators since the pandemic entering those high-priced brands to speculate, and I don't think that's appropriate in the world of watchmaking.”

SIAR will be open until Thursday the 22nd, starting at 11:00 AM.